Stone arch at Amantani Island. Photo Jenny Mealing

Populated by some 800 Quechua-speaking families, Amantaní is a circular, 9 sq. km. island located 36km (22 miles) northeast of Puno. The island is dominated by two mountain peaks, called Pachatata (Father Earth) and Pachamama (Mother Earth), next to which some pre-Hispanic ruins are found (including a mummy cemetery). The island's main attraction, though, are the two lookouts atop the peaks, almost 300 metres over the lake. They offer beautiful sights of Lake Titicaca, particularly during sunsets.

The hillsides of the island are lined with stone walls that divide the many terraces planted with typical Andean crops: potatoes, corn, quinoa, beans, etc. Besides agriculture, the Amantaní people, distributed in half a dozen or so villages, live on fishing and raising cattle, sheep, and alpacas (which are found grazing freely on the hills). As with the Taquiles, Amantanís are too first-class weavers.

The rustic island counts a few small stores, a health clinic and a school. Electricity, though, is not available on Amantaní. Neither are there cars nor hotels. But visitors can stay overnight on private homes, as some families open their houses to tourists and provide cooked meals (everything arranged through tour guides). Given that the stays are pretty inexpensive, visitors are encouraged to bring gifts for their hosts, such as food staples and basic products (batteries for torches, candles, etc).

The trip from Puno takes 3 and a half hours by boat and, instead of a tiresome single-day round trip, it's recommended to spend at least one night on the island (with a second night in Taquile for a formidable visit).

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