Essential Peñas in Lima

Peñas are music clubs that offer folkloric music shows, in particular Afro Peruvian and Criollo gigs. In these upbeat venues you usually eat criollo fare, listen to the music, and have lots of fun -everything seasoned with generous quantities of beer and pisco sour. Eventually, inspired by the friendly atmosphere and the cheerful rhythm of Afro Peruvian music, you will probably end up dancing all night long. Some of the best Peñas in Lima are to be found in Miraflores and Barranco.

The restaurant Manos Morenas (Av. Pedro de Osma 409, Barranco, Phone 467-0421), features from Wednesday to Saturday evenings one of the most upmarket and sophisticated peñas in town, almost entirely dedicated to Afro Peruvian music and traditions. Resident dancers and musicians are top-grade, while guest artists include such big names as Eva Ayllón or Perú Negro. As you would expect in such a high quality venue, prices are quite expensive (cover US$12), but the experience is worth it.

At Peña Del Carajo (San Ambrosio 328, Barranco, Phone 241-8904) participation is almost a must. Indeed, the shows are designed to boost interaction between singers, dancers, and the public. These include some renowned names of Criollo music, like Lucía de la Cruz, Arturo "Zambo" Cavero and Pepe Vásquez. Fridays are dedicated to Criollo music, while Saturdays to Afro Peruvian. Frequented both by locals and tourists, entrance fee ranges from 15 to 25 soles.

If you prefer to taste a wider range of Peruvian folklore, head for La Candelaria (Av. Bolognesi 292, Barranco, Phone 247-1314/2941). Open Fridays and Saturdays from 10pm, this Peña stages a most varied dance show that covers the traditions of the coast, mountain, and jungle: from Lima's Marinera to Puno's Tuntuna, from Afro Peruvian Festejo to the Amazonian Carapachos. The cover is US$7, appetizer and 2 drinks around $13.

In Miraflores you find Sachún (Av. del Ejército 657, Phone 441-4465), a long-lasting venue popular among international travelers and tourists. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, shows start at 10pm and put together an amazing array of folkloric ballets and music. Great interpreters and definitely one of the most complete shows in town, though on the tourist side of entertainment.

Not 200 meters from Sachún stands Caballero de Fina Estampa (Av. del Ejército 800, Miraflores, Phone 441-0552), a chic Peña occupying a large colonial building. Frequented mostly by locals, cover is S/45 ($13).

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