An Introduction to Lima

The City of Kings, the Garden City, the Horrible. There is an obvious reminiscence of splendour in Lima's nicknames, but also an inexorable sense of decay. Like many third-world metropolis, Lima is overwhelmed by poverty, improvisation, and corruption, yet its people is welcoming and creative, and glamour still glows under a layer or two of dust.

Indeed, the dichotomy that pervades every aspect of the city has a peculiar way of settling down: shambles on the outer surface, beauty within. This is probably why most visitors rush through Lima as fast as possible, or even avoid it altogether. And it's a pity. Besides magnificent examples of colonial architecture and fabulous museums -such as the Larco Herrera, which hosts the largest private collection of pre-Columbian art in the world-, Peru's capital has a vivid cultural life, a sparkling nightlife, and most probably the best gastronomic scene in the continent.

Founded by chief conquistador Pizarro in 1535, for over two centuries Lima was the most important city of the Spanish viceroyalties in South America. Its political and cultural importance was only matched by Mexico City, an exceptional status corroborated by some of the finest baroque and renaissance buildings in the region, like the church of San Francisco, with its renowned catacombs and stunning ceilings painted in a style known as mudéjar -a blend of Moorish and Spanish designs.

Alas, the golden years have long been over. Political incompetence and economic instability during the second half of last century created a situation not certainly enviable, characterised by unregulated urban development, painful economic contrasts, and overpopulation -the latter a consequence of prolonged mass migration from the impoverished and neglected rural highlands. Lima though, far from standing still, is constantly reinventing itself, and precisely the Andean migrants and their descendants have provided much of the drive and creativity during the last years.

Most of the locations reviewed in this guide are located in Barranco and Miraflores. The first is Lima's bohemian district, a strong concentrate of bars and clubs that in the after-dark hours becomes the party heart of town. The second, a historic and upscale quarter where you can find most of the best restaurants and cafés, as well many stylish clubs and bars. It's a good idea to choose a hotel in these neighbourhoods, or in the nearby San Isidro, the city's financial district. It's undoubtedly more convenient for nightlife and shopping, and much safer than Lima Centro.