Exploring the Lima Highlands - Marcahuasi
by Greg de Villiers
Before heading off to Marcahuasi, there are a couple of questions you need to ask yourself: how do I feel about heights – and in particular, about plunging from them in a slow moving vehicle? How do I feel about esoteric types – hippies, shamans, crystal bedecked, bearded fellows who wave their hands around a lot? How do I feel about exposing myself to savage, biting chills? And UFOs..?
Answer negatively to any of those and … well you should go anyway, it is worth it. As an easy weekend away from Lima, a camping trip to Marcahuasi is easily one of the best ways to recharge and refresh, to escape out from under the low grey Limeño sky and experience the world from perspectives normally reserved for mid-level gods and condors.
Getting up there is relatively straightforward, take a bus from Lima to Chosica (North East of Lima) and from there you will find the bus that heads up into the mountains and to the village of San Pedro de Casta, the gateway to Marcahuasi. The bus costs S./ 15 ($5) per person (and usually only leaves twice a day – so be sure to check the schedule) or you could charter a taxi for about S./ 200 ($65). Chosica is a perfect place to stock up on whatever supplies you need for hiking and camping – essentials like water, pisco (perfect for keeping the insides warm and cozy), marshmallows, etc.
The journey starts off well, winding through the tiny village of Santa Eulalia, past beautifully landscaped winter sun estates for wealthy Limeños and the river lined with restaurants selling delicious trucha (trout) and pachamancas (meat and potatoes barbecued in a covered fire pit) .
As you leave the village the ascent of begins. The unnervingly narrow road winding up the side of the mountain climbs nearly 3000m in about 90km, providing a view of the valley ahead and the shrinking river below, if you are so inclined as the bus twists and lumbers upwards, that is absolutely spectacular.
The bus arrives at the central plaza of San Pedro de Casta approximately 3 ½ hours later, a tiny rural Andean village at the top of the world. (There is a mirador, or viewpoint near the edge of the village which allows a view over the world of mortals far below)
Nearby is Hotel Municipal; although most travelers head up the same day, if you choose to stay it is one of three options around town with decent, clean rooms that range in price according to season, but will average at S./ 30 ($11). Also on the main square is the tourism office where you pay for your entry to Marcahuasi (S./ 10 or $3.50) for foreigners, make sure you bring your ID) and arrange for mules or horses to carry your supplies or you the 3km up to the top (S./ 15 or $6) – well worth considering as the walk takes a few hours and climbs nearly 800m.
At the top, breathless or saddle-sore, first pitch your tent in the Amphitheatre, which is the most common, but not exclusive place to camp. You have the freedom to begin exploring at your leisure the four and a half by one kilometer plateau of creatively eroded (or sculpted, depending on who you ask) volcanic rock and to find the perfect spot to watch the sun set over a view of endless mountains and the valley in miniature, thousands of meters below.
The plateau was ‘discovered’ in the 1950’s by Daniel Ruzo, who spent 15 years living at Marcahuasi and studying the hundreds of sculptures and various ruins scattering the area. He believed the sculptures to be the work of an ancient race marking this as one of several sacred places around the world to shelter from a global apocalypse – the last being the biblical great flood.
While his theories received no small amount of criticism, there are reams of literature dedicated to the esoteric properties of the place, from fantastic stories about energy lines and portals and mystical experiences to UFO sightings – apparently even confirmed by some local villagers.
Regardless of your sensitivity to the mystic and occult, the sheer number and detail of the stone ‘sculptures’ teeter on the inexplicable, some of whose shapes only reveal themselves under specific lighting conditions, or others, like the most famous Face of Humanity, change throughout the day as the sun moves through the sky. If you really want to spend a day sculpture spotting, it is wise to hire a guide as most are only obvious once they’ve been pointed out…
In the morning, rise with the sun and find yourself an isolated rock to thaw yourself after night temperatures which may dip below zero Celsius, soak up the brittle crisp blue sky and absolute silence, sit for a while and breathe until your mind empties. Whether you find Marcahuasi awash in powerful healing energies or simply open yourself up to a moment of rest for your mind worn thin by the pace and pressures of the city, it is an undeniably special place in the world and a perfect weekend adventure getaway.
Travel tips:
The best time of the year to visit is from May to November during the dry season. Although the sun shines brightly during the day (bring sunscreen) the night temperatures easily drop below zero, so bring a good tent, sleeping bag and warm clothes (and gloves!).
There is no wood on the plateau, so be sure to bring your own for your fire.
Be sure to bring plenty of water and snack food (fruits, etc.) to keep your energy up as you explore the plateau; hiking around even relatively flat areas at this altitude can be very draining.
Try and find a spot to pitch your tent which will put it in line with the rising sun in the morning – you’ll appreciate it!
Planning a trip to Peru? Check out these Peru tours and customized Peru travel experiences.