With the exception of the Sanctuary
Lodge, the sole to be found right next to the ruins,
all accommodation around Machu Picchu occurs downhill
at the touristy Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu town).
Obviously, the idyllic accommodation for visiting Machu
Picchu is the Sanctuary Lodge if you don't mind
the predictable downturns. Besides boasting some of
the most expensive prices in the country, the Sanctuary
Lodge is usually at full capacity year-round, so even
if you have large pockets you'll need to make reservations
with at least three months in advance. In other words,
not an option for the average traveller.
All the alternatives are located downhill at Aguas
Calientes. Here you can find the beautiful Inkaterra
Machu Picchu, the best option at the upper
end. The best mid-range hotel is probably Gringo
Bill's, with Presidente
being a popular and convenient alternative. On the budget
side, you can try Rupa
Wasi.
Recently renamed Machu Picchu Town, Aguas Calientes
is a pretty ramshackle, mostly-concrete town. There
are however a few good reasons for choosing to stay
overnight at Aguas Calientes, instead of simply visiting
Machu Picchu for the day.
In first place, you will be able to catch the first
bus (6.30am) and enjoy Machu Picchu when it's almost
empty -a dramatically different experience. There are
buses every hour until 1.30pm, so if it isn't the first
bus you still have an hour or so before the crowds begin
to arrive from Cusco (by the truck-loads during high
season).
Second, Aguas Calientes is a charming sort of place.
Sitting amidst the tropical forest at the foot of a
sacred mountain, connected to the rest of the world
by a railway that runs straight through its main drag,
and packed with a myriad of inns, restaurants, and Internet
cafés, Aguas Calientes feels like a contemporary
and adventurous frontier town. You can also find some
good hikes in the surroundings, with decent bird and
butterfly watching.