Sanctuary Lodge's restaurant Photo: Orient Express

There are few eating alternatives at Machu Picchu itself, besides the Tinkuy restaurant at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge -buffet for around $20- and the less flamboyant but more affordable El Mirador bar, selling sandwiches, bottled water and other snacks. The situation is dramatically different down at Aguas Calientes, the touristy town at the foots of Machu Picchu, jam-packed with all sorts of eateries -including a myriad of good enough pizzerias-, though most on the unpretentious side.

One of the best restaurants in town is undoubtedly Indio Feliz ("Happy Indian"), a cosy French bistro offering great fare and a nice ambiance at more than reasonable prices.

Equally good is Café Inkaterra, a fairly new restaurant next to the train station. Owned by the same guys as the Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, it features a Novo Andino (contemporary Andean) cuisine. Eating here though is a little more expensive.

Another good alternative is Chez Maggy (Pachacutec 156, Phone 084 211006), a branch of Cusco city's renowned pizza house. Laid-back ambiance and good-value wood-fired pizzas, flavoured with nice rock music.

Meat-lovers should head to Pueblo Viejo (Av. Pachacutec 108, Phone 084 211193), a cheerful eatery specialized in Argentinean-style parrilladas (grills), serving everything from lamb and beef to alpaca and trout. For reasonable vegetarian fare, instead, try Govinda (Av. Pachacutec 20, Phone 9753993).

Remember ATM machines are nowhere to be found at the ruins or in Aguas Calientes, so bring some cash with you or you'll starve until you go back to Cusco.