How to Cross the Border between Peru and Ecuador

by Kaitlin Nunn

Crossing the border between Peru and Ecuador is an adventure of its own. The two South America countries are hot spot travel destinations, but the border crossing lies several miles shy of the well-trodden Gringo Trail. For those travelers who want to border-hop on a budget, here are some tips for how to cross the Peru-Ecuador border without getting into any scrapes. 

The no-man’s land after Tumbes, Peru’s last major town before the border, consists of dry, cracked roads stretching between small towns and outposts. 

The physical process of crossing the border can be a bit of a hassle. If you don't have your Peruvian or Ecuadorian visa or your passport all in order, the immigration officers can seize the opportunity. There is little oversight of the immigration offices, so it’s easy for government officials to go unchecked. If you have overstayed your visa, for example, immigration may stall you until the rest of the travelers have left, then demand money. It's possible that they may even detain you if you do not have sufficient documentation, and then demand money when one else is around. Bring some American dollars to help in case the going gets rough.

Once you do cross the border, you'll be met by a crowd of money-changers and taxi drivers looking to make a buck. Avoid the money-changers; you should be able to get better rates in Quito or the larger cities. Ideally, bring enough American dollars to tide you over for a while. The taxi cabs can take you to Macara for 1 American dollar; don't let them charge you more. But if you already have a bus ticket to Loja or elsewhere, you can just hop back on the bus at the other side of the border and continue on. 

A bus ticket from Lima to Piura or Tumbes is the most economical way to travel to Ecuador, but be forewarned: the journey is rough. The 22 hour bus ride includes virtually no stops, and the windy roads along the coast make for a dizzying ride. 

There are two types of buses that run from Lima to Ecuador's border: economy and luxury. Cruz del Sur and other more luxurious buses make the ride bearable (expect to pay from around 60 soles upwards). The companies are better known for running on time, the stations are clean, and the websites are generally easier to navigate. But for travelers who can handle a rougher ride, and who can get around independently (and speak a bit of Spanish), you can get a ticket for considerably less if you go with a economy bus line such as Civa (25 soles). 

Once you arrive in Piura or Tumbes, you'll want to get your next bus ticket for the border crossing to Ecuador. Purchase a ticket to Guayaquil, Cuenca, Loja, or Quito. Guayaquil and Loja are the closest to the border. Loja International sells 10 soles tickets from Piura to Loja that include a short stop at the border of Macara for immigration. The border town of Macara is small, with only a few shops and hotels surrounded by farmlands. Make sure that your visa and passport are in order; the immigration officers will take any reason to delay you. Tumbes is a much busier border town, but is known for opportunistic crime, so make sure to keep a close eye on your belongings. 

In Loja, take the half hour bus ride to Vilcabamba, one of the most beautiful regions in southern Ecuador. From Loja, you can also take a bus to any of the major cities in Ecuador. But most likely, you'll want to spend the night in Loja before going any further. There are plenty of hostels for about 5 dollars a night, but consider going for a mid-range hostel or hotel – there's no sense losing sleep over a few dollars. There are plenty of restaurants downtown and charming courtyards and plazas. A castle wall and tower guard the downtown; climb the tower for free to get great views.

On the return journey to Peru, use Loja or Guayaquil as jumping off points, passing through Macara to Piura or through Tumbes along the coast back to Lima.

 

For a more relaxed crossing, consider booking a Peru & Ecuador tour package through one of the many travel agencies in Peru, such as this luxury Peru travel operator.