Travel by Bus in Peru

by Andrew Kolasinski

Inter-city bus travel in Peru ranges widely in quality of experience. Several bus companies operate, often in the same areas. Your ride might be a stiffing experience, with no air conditioning, cramped, stinking and battered seats, and live chickens sharing the luggage areas. Or you might ride in air conditioned comfort with leather recliners, excellent food and drink service, personal multi-channel video screens, clean on-board bathrooms, and a smooth speedy ride.

The quality varies greatly, though the difference in price is usually negligible (on a North American budget). I had been lucky during most of my trip to have only traveled on good bus lines like Linea and Cruz de Sur which serve most of Peru.

Many of the larger companies offer three levels of service (and ticket prices) on the more popular routes.

One inconvenient reality of Peruvian bus travel came as a surprise; all routes hub through Lima. Taking a trip in stages is not an option.

Regardless of the quality of the bus line, travel can be unpredictable due to the landscape. Steep mountains, dense jungle, and exposed coastal roads are subject to landslides and wash-outs, so travel delays are a part of life.

During one ride from Huancayo to Lima, my bus descended from a mountain pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet), and then went through a series of tight switchback turns. The view, from glacier and snow pack level, through the arid mountainside, and down into the oasis at the river bottom was enthralling, until about 2,000 meters into the descent the front passenger-side tire began smoking.

We pulled to the side of the road at a small cliff-top village, which owed its existence to the mining operation at the base of the mountain.

I got off the bus to see what the problem was, and the driver’s assistant asked to borrow my cigarette lighter. I was slightly annoyed, imagining our driver standing around smoking cigarettes and uselessly kicking the smoldering tire. Instead I found the crew had already removed the wheel and was welding the brake lines together using my disposable lighter.

We were back on the road in ten minutes, and reached the capital city only a few minutes behind schedule.

Tickets for most bus routes are available at local travel agents as well as at the bus stations of each company. Each bus company has its own station, usually near the center of the city.

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If you are planning a multi-destination trip, consider booking through a Peru travel agent. Standards of transport vary wildly throughout Peru. If you’re looking for the highest standard, consider booking through a luxury Peru travel specialist.

If you are making your own arrangements, the following companies are recommended: Cruz del Sur - 01-311-5050 or 01-424-6158. Ormeno - 01-427-4679. Oltursa – 01-708-5000